The Gems of Northern Martinique

The day after our trip to Guadeloupe, a friend of Sandra’s suggested we drive through the northern part of the island, visit a rum distillery, and explore the far north of Martinique.

The walk down from Sandra’s parents’ apartment to the beach.

In the morning, we’ll take the ferry from Anse à l’Ane to Fort-de-France, where a friend will pick us up.

The sun rises timidly over Martinique, its golden rays gently caressing the lush vegetation. I’m excited to explore the northern part of the island, a region I haven’t yet discovered. First stop: the Depaz estate.

The Depaz Estate: A Story to Savor

Upon arriving at the estate, I’m immediately struck by the Creole architecture of the buildings. A tour of the estate allows me to delve into the history of this distillery, founded in the 17th century. I learn that Depaz is one of the last distilleries to produce traditional agricultural rum—that is, rum made from fresh sugarcane juice rather than molasses.

Founded in the 17th century, the Depaz distillery is a cornerstone of Martinique’s agricultural and industrial history. Nestled in the heart of the island, on the slopes of Mount Pelée, it has become, over the centuries, a global leader in the field of agricultural rum.

An ancestral legacy and a traditional production process

The history of Depaz is intimately linked to that of Martinique. The first records of the distillery date back to 1651, when Jacques Duparquet, the island’s first governor, founded a plantation on the land that would later become the Depaz estate. It was in this exceptional setting—characterized by rich volcanic soils and the omnipresence of nature—that the Depaz family developed its unique expertise.

From sugarcane cultivation to bottling, every step in the production of Depaz rum is carried out with meticulous care. The sugarcane is harvested at peak ripeness and pressed immediately to extract the juice. This juice is then naturally fermented and distilled in copper stills. Finally, the rum is aged in oak barrels, where it acquires its woody and vanilla notes.

A Living Heritage

Today, Depaz is much more than just a distillery. It is a place steeped in history, where tradition and modernity blend. The historic buildings, sugarcane plantations, and copper stills bear witness to ancestral craftsmanship. The distillery is open to the public and offers guided tours that reveal the secrets of rum production.

In short, Depaz is much more than just a rum brand. It is a true part of Martinique’s heritage, a symbol of the island’s history, culture, and craftsmanship.

The tour ends with a tasting. I discover a range of surprising flavors, from fresh, fruity white rums to aged, woody, and complex rums. It’s a true sensory experience that transports me to the heart of the Caribbean.

Anse Couleuvre

After this unique experience, we set off for Anse Couleuvre. The road is winding, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea.

Anse Couleuvre is a place steeped in history and nature in Martinique. The forest that runs through it is home to remnants that bear witness to a rich and diverse past.

We walk through a dense forest covered in vines, like a jungle filled with a thousand and one animal calls, wary of venomous snakes even though the colubrid snakes here are not venomous at all. We walk for a while, cross a small stream, and finally catch a glimpse of the blue ocean in the distance.

When I finally reach the beach, I’m struck by the beauty of the landscape. The black volcanic sand contrasts with the turquoise water, creating a scene straight out of a postcard. I settle down on a towel and watch the waves break on the shore. The calm is absolute, disturbed only by the song of tropical birds. The beach is very natural, dotted with seaweed and dead tree trunks.

I decide to cool off in the crystal-clear water. The sensation of the water on my skin is delightful, letting my thoughts drift far away. I join the others on the beach, and we sip some rum while watching the sunset—a magnificent spectacle that marks the end of this perfect day.

We leave Anse Couleuvre, heading back into the woods to retrieve the car and drive to a nearby bar. Before returning to our lodging, a truly Creole evening awaits us.