Guadeloupe is right on its heels

After a New Year’s Eve filled with plenty of drinks and a day of lounging on the beach, we set off for Guadeloupe by boat for three days.

We figured, why not? Especially since it was something Sandra’s mom had been hoping to do. In fact, she even had a specific hotel in mind.

We’d booked the round-trip ferry (4 hours each way) for 125 euros a few days earlier through Express des Îles.

After getting dropped off by car, we checked in, and now we’re waiting for the ferry, which is running quite a bit late. Finally, around noon, we boarded the boat.

It was almost 5:00 p.m. when we arrived, and we’d already wasted our whole day because of the delay.

We finally arrived at the port of Pointe-à-Pitre. After picking up our luggage, we took a taxi to the Canella Beach Hotel.

What can I say about the hotel? We’d booked a suite for three adults and one child, but we ended up with two basic rooms connected by a door. We had to complain and go to great lengths to get what we wanted. A suite with a living room! Between that and the pool with its warped lining, it was a far cry from what we’d imagined. The hotel’s finishes leave much to be desired given its price. But we’re in Gozier, an idyllic, utterly romantic spot.

Starving, we ate there and enjoyed the evening.

The next day, after breakfast, I watched the little one for a while while Sandra finished up the last details of her work, until a downpour hit us.

Early in the afternoon, I decide to go explore the other side of the island on my own, heading toward the fort. I walk for a long time along a deserted, wild beach, then I spot a supermarket and decide to go in to buy some alcohol.

When I got back, I sat down in front of the vast expanse of water that is the ocean and rested for a while. It felt good to be alone, lost in my thoughts.

Later that day, Sandra joined me, and we had a drink while taking in the view before the sun set. In the evening, we discovered a really nice and delicious restaurant: Le Spot.

Throughout this time, I spend a lot of time chatting with one of Sandra’s acquaintances—the boat owner I met on the night of the Boucan. He’s a charming man, and I really enjoy talking with him.

He’ll offer to take me on a jet-ski ride on the way back and show me some off-the-beaten-path spots in Martinique.

For our last day, we planned to visit the ACTe Memorial, a cultural center dedicated to commemorating the violence of slavery!

"The ACTe Memorial, a cultural institution dedicated to the history, heritage, and memory of the transatlantic slave trade, slavery, and its abolition, was inaugurated on May 10, 2015. This project was initiated by the Guadeloupe Region as early as 2004, in response to a desire that has been deeply rooted in Guadeloupean society for more than thirty years. The call for a national site dedicated to this
history has also been a recurring demand since the first National Day of Remembrance of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, Slavery, and Their Abolition, on May 10, 2006. The MACTe serves as a catalyst for the diverse energies, reflections, and work of cultural, scientific, intellectual, and political actors; it is the culmination of this work, the result of joint efforts at
the local and national levels.” Excerpt from the MACTe website

We set off after lunch, less than half an hour later. After a long wait—which is customary in the Caribbean—we finally enter the Memorial. Photography is prohibited on the premises.

Slavery—I realize just how ignorant or blind people are, despite today’s technology and access to information. Or perhaps they simply don’t want to open their eyes. At least, that was true of many of those present at the memorial. My ears were in for a rough time with the comments I heard; I was shocked and stunned by what was said. Honestly, it was really hard for me, and I ended up muttering under my breath. How is it possible that in 2023, so many people are convinced that slavery was a kind of “work”—after all, at least they were fed and housed. Just imagine that entire families were torn apart or killed so that their children or the strong ones could be taken away! That they were “stored” and mistreated while awaiting sale. How horrible to say such things. I’ve even heard someone say that people from the Caribbean are exaggerating and “making a big deal out of this whole story.” Others said they don’t realize the full extent of slavery.

The history of slavery, from the earliest times, across the globe. The resulting cultural mix and its impact on the countries that were heavily affected. The artistic diversity that emerged from all that horror.

If you’re going to Guadeloupe, I highly recommend it. Through videos, art, and reenactments, the story is brought to life; this memorial is rich in content and sheds light on this chapter of history.

After that, we went to eat at Claudette’s, a small deli-restaurant that was the only one open at that hour. And for us, it was a sign because of the street’s name!

For a place that doesn’t look like much, we had a really great and hearty meal!

On the way back, we hung out by the pool, and late in the evening, we went for a walk, hoping to have a nice drink and find a good restaurant. L’As de Pic in Gozier—another place I can recommend. The staff was very friendly, as were the locals on the island.

It’s our last night in Guadeloupe, and we end the evening on the beach across from our hotel with a bottle of rosé and a midnight dip in the pleasantly warm water.

On the last day, Sandra and her son stayed behind to enjoy the pool, while Noémie and I went exploring in Pointe-à-Pitre to do some shopping and have lunch at an Indian restaurant.

We’d arranged to meet Sandra at the port an hour before the boat’s departure to check in.

The return trip was quite rough, as the sea was very choppy; the journey was barely bearable, and many people were seasick—even the soldiers. We arrived in Port-de-France in a pitiful state, with our stomachs completely turned upside down!

The next article will recount my two-day jet ski adventure.

Yours truly, Ninve