Boracay, the bustling island

Boracay, that paradise island in the Philippines—I’d been dreaming of going back there for years. My excitement was at its peak as the plane began its descent toward Malay Island, the gateway to Boracay. However, the landing marked the beginning of an eventful adventure.

The trip from Bohol to Boracay took us a whole day. Even though we left early, there are no direct flights between Bohol and Malay, so we had to make a nearly 3-hour layover in Manila.

Boracay: From Lost Paradise to Tourist Frenzy

Boracay… I remember my first trips there, in 2001 and 2010 (here). Back then, it was a hidden gem, an unspoiled paradise where nature still reigned supreme. The beaches were pristine, the atmosphere peaceful, and tourists were a rare sight. Today, returning there, the contrast is stark. The island has changed—and not necessarily for the better.

Arrival: A Warm Welcome… Too Warm!

As soon as we stepped out of the airport, we were swarmed by a horde of vendors offering transfers to Boracay. Vans, boats—you name it! The pressure was intense, with everyone trying to convince us to hop aboard their vehicle. Fortunately, my seasoned traveler’s instinct told me to take a step back.

The Good Deal: A Negotiated All-Inclusive Transfer

As I scanned the area, I spotted a discreet kiosk offering all-inclusive transfers. The initial price of 1,050 PHP seemed reasonable to me, but after some haggling, I got the one-way transfer for 900 PHP and the return trip for 600 PHP per person—a real bargain!

The Journey: Van and Boat—The Adventure Continues

The transfer turned out to be an almost picturesque journey—if it weren’t for the porters constantly bothering us.

A van took us to the tip of Malay Island, where a boat was waiting to take us across to Boracay. The view of the turquoise waters was simply breathtaking. I remember that back then, we’d arrived by bancas at White Beach, Station 2—feet in the water and suitcases held high above our heads.

Arrival in Boracay: One Hadgan Villas, a Royal Welcome

Once on the island, another van took us to our accommodations on the other tip of the island. And there, a surprise! We were welcomed like royalty. A welcome ritual featuring local refreshments immediately immersed us in Boracay’s relaxed atmosphere.

Villa Hadgan: A Luxurious Haven of Peace

Touring our two-story accommodation, Villa Hadgan, was a truly enchanting experience. A private pool, pool table, kitchen, and a host just for us—with whom we created a WhatsApp group—meant everything was in place for an unforgettable stay. Luxury and comfort abounded; it was a true haven of peace after the hustle and bustle of our arrival.

The Lost Soul of a Paradise Island

Boracay has lost its soul—at least the one I was deeply in love with. Its natural beauty, though still present, is now being smothered by mass tourism. The island, a victim of its own success, has become a striking example of the excesses of modern tourism—a phenomenon amplified by the influence of Instagram. (I know I’m being a little too dramatic when I say these things. I should certainly be more grateful for having enjoyed this little slice of paradise back in the day.)
As I crossed the island, images from the past flooded my mind. Boracay has been completely transformed, disfigured. I don’t recognize anything anymore. Where peaceful fields and charming little cottages once stretched out, entire neighborhoods now stand—hastily built—stretching from the famous White Beach all the way to Bulabong Beach. A sense of disappointment washed over me, but I had to face the facts: Boracay couldn’t remain frozen in time as a jewel in my memories. We evolve, we grow, and Boracay, in turn, has undergone this transformation.

As evening fell, our quest for an authentic dining experience led us to a small local restaurant. Upon arrival, we discovered a surprisingly intimate spot, barely able to seat seven people at a single table. Just as we were considering another option, the sky suddenly opened up. A tropical downpour came crashing down, soaking us from head to toe in the space of two minutes. We took shelter in a tuktuk to the mall and then back to the villa, soaking wet, to order some food.

Exploring new neighborhoods and trying to find each other.

The next day, the group split up—one group went for a walk and the other headed to the beach.
My attempt to find my bearings was a bit complicated. I felt lost and nostalgic for Boracay’s past. I’ll miss those landscapes forever. That said, after about half an hour, I found my way back to Palenke, a small local market where you can find fruits and vegetables, as well as bars.
After a nice walk, we started to get hungry and ran into the others on White Beach—they were just as hungry as we were.

On the way back, I stumbled upon what might very well be the Red Coconut, the hotel where I’ve stayed twice before. It’s finally been renovated, with live music and an expanded restaurant.

Our day ended in the evening with a gourmet stop at Bistro des Amis. This bistro, run by a Belgian brewer of the beer of the same name, was a real revelation. We savored delicious dishes, served with remarkable speed and precision. A striking contrast to the endless waits we’d experienced elsewhere. If you’re in the area, don’t miss this spot!

Exploring the North of the Island

The hotel offers transportation by tuk-tuk. I did notice, though, that most of the island’s tuk-tuks are electric and surprisingly fast. Off we went to explore the north, winding through picturesque landscapes. I don’t remember the northern part of the island—at least not as it is today. Destination: Cujo’s Keyhole

First stop: Cujo’s Keyhole. The waves crash against the rocks, creating a wild and magnificent spectacle. The path is closed; we can’t drive on it. I suppose this is due to the strong wind blowing.

Puka Shell Beach: A Hidden Treasure

At Puka Shell Beach, the sand is dotted with puka shells.Puka shellsare natural, pearl-shaped shells found on beaches, primarily in Hawaii and elsewhere. Each pearl is the beach-worn apex of a conical snail shell. These shells are often strung into necklaces, known as puka shell necklaces. Pukais the Hawaiian word for “hole” and refers to the natural hole in the center of these rounded, weathered shell fragments.

A short break is in order, and the crystal-clear water beckons us to take a dip, but the adventure continues.

We pause for a few moments, letting the wind caress our skin as we sit on a tree trunk weathered by time and the tides. My gaze drifts into the vast blue expanse, where the sky and the sea merge. A vibrant silence fills the group, filled with the murmur of the waves, the distant cry of a bird, and the rustling of the wind through the leaves.

Here, on this stretch of wood, facing the ocean, I feel both small and immense at the same time. It’s a simple, authentic moment, one of a beauty that touches the soul. I don’t need anything else. Just this moment. The wood, the sea, the wind, the presence. A pause, a deep breath before hitting the road again. A precious memory, like a hidden treasure.

Diniwid Beach, this little haven of peace.

Diniwid Beach, this little haven of peace… It’s funny how we can feel such different desires at the same time. One part of us, the wandering soul, is eager to discover what lies beyond every headland, every curve of the coast. The other part, more contemplative, dreams of stretching out on the warm sand and letting time slip away to the rhythm of the waves.

Today, the call of exploration is the strongest. The three of us decide to leave the tranquility of Diniwid behind and set out to conquer Lambros Point. The transition is simply magical.

We leave the little cove on foot, taking the trail that winds along the hillside. With every step, a new scene unfolds before us, each more spectacular than the last. The rugged coastline, with its rocks sculpted by the wind and waves, plunges into waters of an unreal turquoise hue. A true feast for the eyes! We’re completely awestruck, breathless at the sheer beauty.

The trail takes us right up to the rock. We walk along the cliff, with that exhilarating feeling of being suspended between land and sea. And then, as we round a bend, it reveals itself in all its splendor: White Beach. Four kilometers of white sand stretching as far as the eye can see. A breathtaking panorama—a reward worthy of our efforts. There we are, the three of us, dazzled by this magnificent spectacle that nature has given us. A moment frozen in time, etched into our memories.

We settle down in front of a small stall to drink a “BUKO,” a young coconut. So we head back the way we came to suggest to our friends that we return later to watch the sunset from White Beach, rather than taking a tuk-tuk and going all the way around via the street. We promise it’ll take barely 15 minutes to walk there.

We also promise them a fabulous sunset at White Beach.

The atmosphere here contrasts sharply with the tranquility of Diniwid. The energy is everywhere, palpable: bodies splash about in the turquoise water, voices rise to extol the local treasures, catchy rhythms invite you to dance, and laughter bursts forth like champagne bubbles. We’re immersed in the heart of life, in the effervescence of Boracay.

Hunger starts to set in, and our stomachs are demanding their due. We’re tempted by one of the restaurants lining the beach, where we savor a seafood feast while waiting for the sun to deign to treat us to its twilight spectacle.

After dinner, we settle down on the beach, but Mala and I, impatient as we are, decide to wade into the water as if moving toward the sun would make it set faster. Our friends, however, don’t seem interested.

Oh, wait—they heard our calls!

And then, the long-awaited moment arrives. The sun begins its descent, and the sky transforms into a fiery masterpiece. Shades of orange, yellow, and gold. A true celestial blaze. I settle back down on the sand, my gaze mesmerized by this fleeting magic. Every second is a gift, an unforgettable image etched forever in my memory alongside the past sunsets of this bustling island. A magnificent spectacle, an ode to the raw beauty of nature.

Evening: Back to White Beach, Station 2

After relaxing for a while in our villa, the call of White Beach beckons. We hop on a tricycle and head to Station 2, where the action is in full swing. Red Coconut.

Returning to the Red Coconut was a bit like opening an old travel journal—one where every page was steeped in memories. This hotel held a special place in my heart; it marked my first long trip in 2001, when I stayed there for two weeks. The restaurant, once so familiar, had been completely transformed. It had expanded, with fire jugglers lighting up the evening with an incandescent glow. A captivating show, to be sure… And then, the live music began to swell, surging like a wave of sound. Very quickly, the noise took over, turning the festive atmosphere into a deafening cacophony. Unfortunately, our meals—which we’d already ordered—were just as bland as the restaurant had become.

That day in Boracay was a mix of magical moments and not-so-magical ones. From the tranquility of Newcoast to the hustle and bustle of White Beach, via the secret beaches of the north, I rediscovered all the facets of this island—though I no longer considered it a paradise, as it fell short of my memories.

The Boracay adventure ends with a return trip just as wild as the arrival. Off to El Nido!

Yours truly,

Ninve