Bohol, the Island of the Tarsiers

Dream beaches.

First day: a gentle wake-up to the sound of roosters crowing, though much quieter than in Siquijor. We’re 15 minutes from Alona Beach. We’re staying in a small resort with little cottages laid out as follows: a large living room, a bedroom, and a bathroom, plus a small terrace that opens directly onto a pool.

The staff is pretty friendly, but the pool isn’t very clean. We decide to take it easy today before the next two busy days. We head toward the private beach of a well-known hotel, the Oceanica Beach Resort. I’ll write about it in the next few hours—it’s the hotel next to the Bohol Beach Resort, where I stayed many years ago.

Today, we’re going to take a trip inland. I invite you to join me on this unforgettable adventure to discover the island’s hidden gems. Even though I’ve already done this tour 14 years ago, I’m thrilled to do it again with my new companions—a wild and crazy crew, where everyone has their own unique personality. We’re all going through our own phases—partly because of our fatigue, but also because our stars never seem to align at the same time. That’s what makes this group such a wonderful mix of people from all walks of life. Some are stepping out of their comfort zones, others are right at home, and some are somewhere in between. One of us .

Chocolate Hills: A Wonderful Mystery of Bohol

Ah, the Chocolate Hills! A name that evokes a sweet treat, but which actually hides a natural spectacle unique in the world. Imagine more than 1,200 conical hills, lined up in rows, stretching as far as the eye can see across some 50 square kilometers. That’s the Chocolate Hills—one of the geological wonders of the Philippines and a must-see on our trip to Bohol.

An Astonishing and Mysterious Landscape

These hills, ranging in height from 30 to 50 meters, are covered with vegetation that changes color with the seasons. During the dry season, they take on a chocolate hue, hence their name. But during the rainy season, they turn vibrant shades of green, offering an equally spectacular landscape.

The origin of these geological formations is still a matter of debate. Some theories suggest they are ancient coral reefs that emerged due to tectonic movements and were then eroded by time and the elements. Others point to volcanic eruptions or sedimentary deposits. Whatever their origin, the Chocolate Hills are a true geological mystery—a unique and astonishing landscape. Even though this is my second visit, I’m still in awe of the beauty of these wonders of Mother Nature. I’ve also noticed some changes. I didn’t feel like there were many people there the first time I visited. Maybe it was because we went very early in the morning. The overlook hasn’t been renovated, and as a result, some paths have been closed off. A huge concrete platform with a barrier has been built, making the place feel less natural than it used to.

A Must-See Tourist Attraction

The Chocolate Hills remain one of Bohol’s most popular tourist attractions.
You can go ATV riding there, but with the current heat—it’s nearly 35 degrees—I’m really glad I didn’t do it.

The Tarsier Sanctuary

After this feast for the eyes, we head to the tarsier sanctuary. These tiny nocturnal primates are the stars of Bohol. Their large, expressive eyes and tiny size make them so endearing. I watch them closely in their specially designed habitat where they sleep. They’re nocturnal, insect-eating animals that weigh no more than 150 grams and fit in the palm of your hand. But we’re not allowed to touch them.

Along the way, we pass churches that are a reminder of a colonial past that’s still very much present.

Noon: Cruise on the Loboc River

It’s time to have lunch on the Loboc River. I’m lulled by the gentle current of the water as I admire the lush vegetation lining the banks. A delicious Filipino meal is served on board, accompanied by live music that’s a bit too loud—but despite that, it’s a well-deserved break in the heart of nature.

Evening: Memories and Wonder

As the sun sets, I’m filled with memories and wonder. I’ve re-explored unique landscapes and seen my favorite tarsiers again. Bohol is an island that will forever remain in my heart.